Netted Edging from Tatting and Netting

Some netting patterns in Tatting and Netting are very easy to follow.  Everything is correct and the finished product matches the photo in the book.  Netted Edging, on page 116 of Tatting and Netting, is that kind of pattern.

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Recently I re-made the two juggling bags so I could photograph them side-by-side.  The one with the red top has 100 knots, while the one with the blue top has 108 knots.

They both hold about the same number of balls, although the one with the blue top is snugger.  

Border in Rose and Sheaf Pattern from Tatting and Netting and a Forest Glade

I love the look of the Sheaf Pattern.  This version, from page 113 of Tatting and Netting, uses a combination of netting and crocheting.  I used a #3 knitting needle (the one that is 3mm) and a flat 3/8" mesh stick.  The directions for this edge, the Rose Stitch, and Round Netting were clear and easy to understand.

I recently finished re-making another doily.  I called this one Forest Glade.  When I looked at this doily, I could easily imagine myself standing in a forest glade, looking up through the leaves to see a shining, twinkling star.

When I made it originally, I let my son and his fiancé choose the center, edge, and a few of their favorite netting stitches. It is about 20 inches across and has just over 6,000 knots.

Netted Edge from Tatting and Netting and a Two-Color Doily

This is the third Netted Edging I have made from Tatting and Netting, by Butterick Publishing Company. The instructions for this Netted Edge, found on page 114 , did not match the photo of the edge. I decided to match the photo, rather than follow the instructions as they were written.  I eliminated the ninth row of the instructions.

The pattern called for "a bone knitting needle of medium size for the mesh" for the entire edging. I used a size 7 knitting needle as a mesh stick.

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Many years ago, while I was still in high school, I wondered how easy it would be to put two different colors on the same round of a doily.  The doily I created with this experiment I called Golden Ray.

           

I soon discovered that it was time-consuming to change netting needles every time I wanted to change colors.  I had to tie two extra knots - one where the color changed to white and one where it changed back to yellow.  Not only did that take extra time, but I also noticed, when I took this photo, that those knots also came untied more easily than the regular netted knots.

Eventually I wondered how it would look in just one color.  At that time I did not have a digital camera so I made a copy on a photocopier.  That copy could not show the entire circle, just a rectangular section.  Now that I have a digital camera, I re-made Golden Ray in a single color.

Netted Edging from Tatting and Netting

This Netted Edging is found on page 113 in Tatting and Netting, by Butterick Publishing Company. There are five different patterns in Tatting and Netting named Netted Edging.

Instructions used from Tatting and Netting

This edging is very similar to the pattern found in the Priscilla Netting Book. Besides the fact that I started with twelve loops this time and only six when I made the one from the Priscilla netting book, the only difference I can see is that I used different sized mesh sticks.  In both samples I used a 3/8" mesh stick for the large; however this time I used a #4 knitting needle for the medium mesh stick instead of a #8 knitting needle and a #0 knitting needle for the small mesh stick instead of a #3 knitting needle.

Instructions used from the Priscilla Netting Book

It makes me wonder if the editor of the Priscilla Netting Book used the pattern from Tatting and Netting, if they both came up with the same idea independently, or if they both get it from another source.

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I finished another of the doilies I am making again, Eyelet Lace. 

Eyelet Lace

The Eyelet Lace doily is a variation on the Eyelet doily my grandmother made.  I misread the instructions and did something different. Rather than cut off all the netting between where the mistake was and where I noticed the mistake, I changed the pattern slightly and had a new doily pattern.

Eyelet

Can you find where I went wrong?  It was only two loops, a simple miscounting. What other changes did I make?

Netted Fringe from Tatting and Netting

The instructions for Netted Fringe, found on page 112 of Tatting and Netting, by Butterick Publishing Company, looked simple to do.  They were simple to do.  But I could not get what I had made to look like the picture in the book.

The first time I tried the pattern, I did each row with a single strand of thread.

My second attempt used double thread on rows 2 and 4, like the pattern implied.  I chose not to put the fringe on this one and the last attempt because I was in a hurry and the fringe would look the same on each.

For my third try I used a 3/8" mesh stick instead of the 3/4" suggested in the directions for rows 2 and 4. This sample was much closer to what was shown in the book.  I used double thread for rows 2 and 4.

I should probably make one more using the 3/8" mesh and a single strand of thread for the entire pattern before I decide which one is closest to the illustration in the book.  Or more importantly, which one I like more.

Edging in Double Fan or Sheaf Design from Tatting and Netting and a Different Beginning for a Duffle-type Shoulder Bag

I have long enjoyed looking at the Double Fan or Sheaf Design, but could not find an explanation for how to make it until I found the Edging in Double Fan or Sheaf Design found on page 112 of Tatting and Netting, by Butterick Publishing Company.  This is the first of two ways explained in this book to create this Sheaf pattern.  I had hoped that it was strictly a net design; however, I discovered that it needed a hand-tied knot, made after the netting was finished, to form the Sheaf.

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I received an e-mail from Anthony Emery describing the technique he had used to start a duffle-type shoulder bag.

He said:  "After posting a photo of this bag at a forum I received requests for a tutorial. I adapted it from the book "Net Making" by Charles Holdgate. The tutorial only shows how to change from the flat netting that is made on the first row of netting to circular/tubular netting. I left the number of meshes and size of the gauge up to whoever tries the technique. . . . Here is a link to the tutorial http://pineapple.myfunforum.org/sutra3431.php#3431 and here is the bag."

Charles Holdgate used a 1", 1.5", and a 2" mesh stick.  The beginning row was made using the 1.5" mesh and the final round with doubled thread used the 2" mesh.  The rest of the bag was made using a 1" mesh.  Of course any size mesh could be used, depending on how you plan to use the bag.

When I asked Tony about the drawstring, he replied: "To make the drawstring I used the method shown here http://pineapple.myfunforum.org/about1654.html.  I used the same cord I used for making the bag. I tied a loop of twine between the fixed point and the drill (I did not triple the single cord as shown in the tutorial) and proceeded as shown.

It is MUCH easier and quicker to use this method. http://pineapple.myfunforum.org/about1668.html"

Now I just need to find a hand drill.  

Netted Border, With Fringe from Tatting and Netting -- continued

I decided to re-do the Netted Border, with Fringe that I showed last week.  This week I made one change to the way the instructions were written. On the row after the puff stitch was made, the instructions state: "Next row, -- Plain, with the quarter-inch mesh." I changed it to: Next row -- *Net 1 knot in each loop for 2 loops, net 10 loops together (that's the nine loops of the puff stitch and one loop after the puff stitch)*, repeat from the * to *, ending with net 1 knot in each loop for 2 loops.

I like this version better.  It has a knot at the top and bottom of the puff stitch .

My version of the instructions:

Fill two netting needles with thread - one of them with a single strand of thread, and the other with 3 strands of thread.

Row 1: Using a 1/4" mesh stick and the netting needle filled with the single strand of thread, net  a multiple of 3 loops + 2 loops (8, 11, 14, 17 for example) in the foundation loop. (The sample above uses 14.)

Rows 2-6: Using the 1/4" mesh stick and the same netting needle, net 1 knot in each loop.

Row 7: Using a #6 (4 mm) knitting needle and the netting needle filled with 3 strands of thread, net 1 knot in each loop.

Row 8: Using a 1/4" mesh stick and the netting needle filled with the single strand of thread, net 1 knot in each three-strand loop, but twist the loop once before netting into it.

Row 9: Using a 3/8" mesh stick and the same netting needle as for row 8, *net 1 knot in each loop for 3 loops, pass the thread over the mesh and up through the last loop just worked in, and continue this 9 times; then tie the netting knot in the regular way, except you do not put the thread over the mesh and into the next loop; instead, put the netting needle behind the 9 loops and out between the cluster and the last single loop made.*  Repeat from * to *, ending with net 1 knot in each loop for 2 loops.

Row 10: using the 1/4" mesh stick and the netting needle filled with the single strand of thread, *net 1 knot in each loop for 2 loops, net 10 loops together (that's the nine loops of the puff stitch and one loop after the puff stitch)*; repeat from the * to *, ending with net 1 knot in each loop for 2 loops.

Row 11: repeat row 7.

Row 12: repeat row 8.

Cut strands of fringe as long as desired (the sample strands were about 5 inches long), and knot or tie 5 in each loop created in row 12.