Saturday, March 30, 2013

The Ladies' Self Instructor

There is no author listed for The Ladies' Self Instructor in Millinery and Mantua Making, Embroidery and Applique, Canvas-work, Knitting, Netting and Crochet-work.  The linked, digitized copy was published in 1853.  Even though it is "illustrated with numerous engravings," none of those engravings are included with the netting information.
  1. Explanation of Terms Used in Knitting (page 152)
  2. Netted Mittens (page 162)
  3. A Net Purse in Points (page 167)
  4. Corkscrew Netting for a Purse (page 168)
  5. Netted Curtain (page 175)
  6. Netted Scarf (page 175)
  7. Treble Diamond Netting (page 176)
  8. Single Diamond Netting (page 177)
  9. Tuft Netting (page 177)
  10. Double Netting for a Mitten (page 180)
  11. Patterns for D'oyleys, Basket, or Fish Napkins and Purses: No. 1 (page 182)
  12. Patterns for D'oyleys, Basket, or Fish Napkins and Purses: No. 2 (page 182)
  13. Patterns for D'oyleys, Basket, or Fish Napkins and Purses: No. 3 (page 183)
  14. Netted Lambs'-wool Shawl or Handkerchief (page 183)
  15. Netted Sofa Tidy (page 183)
  16. To Work the Backs of Netted Mittens (page 184)
  17. Netted Cuffs (page 186)
  18. Netted Bag (page 189)
  19. Striped Purse (page 189)
  20. Bead Netting (page 190)
  21. Bead Netting, with the Bead on the Knot (page 190)
Thanks to this book I have become acquainted with some new terms:  

  • Mantua - "loose gown worn by women 17c.-18c.," 1678, from Fr. manteau "cloak, mantle," from O.Fr. mantel (see mantle); form infl. in Eng. by Mantua, name of a city in Italy. Mantua-maker (1694) became the general early 19c. term for "dressmaker."Online Etymology Dictionary, © 2010 Douglas Harper 
  • Tidy - (used as a noun) an antimacassar
  • Antimacassar - "a cloth covering the back and arms of chairs, etc, to prevent soiling or as decoration"; "coined 1852, from anti- + macassar oil, imported hair tonic from Indonesian island of Sulawesi. The cloth was laid to protect chair and sofa fabric from people leaning their oily heads back against it. Macassar is from native Mangkasara, name of a district on the island." Online Etymology Dictionary, © 2010 Douglas Harper 
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A mobius or moebius strip is a continuous, one-sided surface formed by twisting one end of a rectangular strip through 180° about the longitudinal axis of the strip and attaching this end to the other.  To see how to make one click here or here.

Several years ago I became acquainted with moebius knitting through the delightful Cat Bordhi.  She would knit a moebius strip, thereby creating a scarf.  Sometimes she would add a hat or bag to the moebius strip.  I wondered how I could use the unique and magical techniques she had developed for knitting and apply them to netting.   Then one day I figured out how to net a moebius bag.

Since I am going through my patterns and checking out the instructions, I decided to take the pattern for the spiral net bag I made a few weeks ago, give the handle a twist when joining it, and create a moebius bag.  

The fun thing with a moebius bag is that even though it looks like the bag has an inside and an outside, it is really a one-sided surface.   There is only one surface!   All I did was stretch one portion of the moebius strip a little and put a few extra stitches in it.

The only difference between the patterns for the regular bag and the moebius bag is the twist in the handle. 

Saturday, March 23, 2013

The Handbook of Needlework (5th edition) by Miss Lambert

Several weeks ago I listed the netting patterns that were in The Handbook of Needlework by Miss Lambert.  This week I decided to list the netting information found in The Handbook of Needlework (5th edition).  The digitized copy of the 5th edition of Miss Lambert's book was published in 1846.

Many of the patterns listed in the two editions appear to be the same, since the name is the same, but that is not necessarily true.  In looking closer at such patterns, I noticed a difference in the number of starting loops between the patterns in the two editions, the mesh stick size, or the number of rows.  These small changes are easy to miss and may make a difference in the way the final product looks.

There is one new pattern - #21 - Chain Pattern Netting for a Purse.
  1. Netting (page 431)
  2. Plain Netted Gentleman's Purse (page 435)
  3. A Lady's Purse (page 436)
  4. Gentleman's Purse with Ends of Different Colours (page 436)
  5. A Lady's Purse with Points (page 436)
  6. A Pretty Purse with Chine Silk (page 437)
  7. Netting with Beads (page 437)
  8. A Plain Netted Purse with a Bead Mouth (page 437)
  9. A Seme purse with steel or gold beads (page 438)
  10. An Elegant Netted Purse with Steel Beads (page 438)
  11. Plain Netted Mittens (page 439)
  12. A Knitter's Bag with Ring (page 440)
  13. Grecian Netting (page 440)
  14. A Checked or Dice Pattern Purse (page 441)
  15. A Purse in Grecian Netting (page 442)
  16. Mittens in Grecian Netting (page 442)
  17. A Fringe (page 443)
  18. Single Diamond Netting (page 443)
  19. Treble Diamond Netting (page 443)
  20. Diamond Netting, with Five Stitches (page 444)
  21. Chain Pattern Netting for a Purse (page 446)
  22. Seme Purse, Diamond Pattern (page 447)
  23. Open Plain Netting, or Filet a Bagaette (page 448)
  24. Fond de Berlin (page 448)
  25. Filet Rose (page 449)
  26. Filet a Baton rompu (page 450)
  27. Netted Mittens with Silk and Wool (page 450)
  28. Netted Cuff with Silk and Wool (page 451)
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I am gradually going back through my net doily patterns and remaking the ones that have only a partial picture - such as this one.

Here is how it looked when I finished it this week.  

I designed the pattern back in the 1980's and named it Friendship in honor of the wonderful friend to whom I gave it.  When I made it, I knew how to make only spiral netting.  In looking at the directions I discovered I needed to either increase or decrease the number of loops in the center by 16 to make the pattern work.  Since I no longer have the doily, I have no idea how I got the numbers to work the first time.  I chose to decrease the number of loops, since in my opinion it was already too full and did not show the stitches to their best advantage.

Saturday, March 16, 2013

A Winter Gift for Ladies being instructions in Knitting, Netting, and Crochet Work by An American Lady

A Winter Gift for Ladies being instructions in Knitting, Netting, and Crochet Work by An American Lady was published in 1848.  I found an interesting netting note at the end of the Explanation of Terms used in Knitting.  It stated, "The netting meshes are numbered from the knitting needle gauge, as I am not aware there is any other rule for them."  If that sentence had been given in some of the first netting books I looked at, I would have been sure much earlier that my hypothesis, that numbered mesh sticks were referring to knitting needles, was correct.

The netting patterns and stitches in this book are as follows:

  1. Explanation of Terms used in Knitting (page 10)
  2. Netted Mittens (page 20)
  3. A Net Purse in Points (page 23)
  4. Corkscrew Netting for a Purse (page 26)
  5. Netted Curtain (page 33)
  6. Netted Scarf (page 33)
  7. Treble Diamond Netting (page 34)
  8. Single Diamond Netting (page 35)
  9. Tuft Netting (page 35)
  10. Double Netting for a Mitten (page 38)
  11. Netted Lamb's-wool Shawl or Handkerchief (page 41)
  12. Netted Sofa Tidy (page 41)
  13. To work the backs of Netted Mittens (page 42)
  14. Netted Cuffs (page 44)
  15. Netted Bag (page 47)
  16. Bead Netting (page 49)
  17. Diamond Netting (page 49)

No pictures today, sorry.  I spent most of my day at Novice Schola (and most of my week preparing to teach netting).  Novice Schola is an SCA event held annually in Springfield, Massachusetts.  While there, I taught three novices how to tie the netting knot.  When they left,  all three could tie a netting knot.  I hope they retain that knowledge tomorrow.  

While I was at Novice Schola, a friend shared with me a picture she had seen in Woven into the Earth: Textile finds in Norse Greenland by Else Ostergaard.  Included in the picture were two men, and each of them was wearing a net version of our modern belt bag or fanny pack tied around his waist.  One bag seemed to be in diamond-mesh and the other in square-mesh.  Amazing where netting turns up.

Saturday, March 9, 2013

The Art of Netting by S. F. Every

This is not The Art of Netting by Jules and Kaethe Kliot but one written much earlier.  The Art of Netting; with the Method of Making and Mending Fishing Nets by Simon Frederick Every  Esq. deals with making nets of all types.  It was published in 1845.  Additional digitized copies can be located here.

Since I do not fish or trap, I was going to ignore this book.  Then I started looking at the introduction.  The  illustrations of netting tools caught my eye, there were some I had not seen before, and I began to read.  In chapter 2 he describes a method of netting that seems to be a cross between the two other methods I have tried.  He claims to have reached speeds of 1,300 to 1,750 knots per hour.  That is much faster than I can go.

Most of this book is devoted to different types of nets that can be made.

  1. Introduction (page 5)
  2. Holding the mesh and making the knot (page 11)
  3. The Drag-net (page 15)
  4. Trammel-net (page 23)
  5. Cast-net (page 32)
  6. Drop-net (page 34)
  7. Cleach-net (page 35)
  8. The Flew (page 36)
  9. Hand-nets (page 37)
  10. The Hoop, or Drum-net (page 38)
  11. Eel-net (page 40)
  12. Mending Nets (page 46)
  13. Sea Nets (page 50)
*     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *

I have been going back through the patterns I have designed over the years.  Most of them are computerized, but I did not always list how much yarn or thread I used for a pattern.  With that in mind, I decided that I needed to make some of the patterns again.  

I chose to make a small bag I can use as a gift bag. It's made from the top down, handle first.

The bottom of the bag has a pentagon-shaped decrease, which ends in a tiny grommet.

Saturday, March 2, 2013

The Practical Companion to the Work-table by Elizabeth Jackson

The best digitized copy I could find for The Practical Companion to the Work-table Containing Directions for Knitting, Netting & Crochet Work by Elizabeth Jackson is located here.  Even though it is missing pages 14 and 15, which tell how to use the knitting needle gauge she has pictured in her book, at least it has all the netting patterns, which some online copies do not seem to have. This copy of the book was published in 1845.

These netting patterns all include the material and the mesh to be used.  Care needs to be taken, though, when selecting the mesh.  The numbering starts with the largest size at 1 and the smallest at 26.

  1. Remarks on Netting (page 135)
  2. Netted Mittens (page 137, item 89)
  3. Netted Mittens (page 138, item 90)
  4. Netted Border for a Cap (page 139, item 91)
  5. Tulip Purse (page 140, item  92)
  6. Purse in Points (page 141, item 93)
  7. Handsome Long Netted Purse (page 143, item 94)
  8. Netted Long Purse (page 144, item 95)
  9. Round Netted Gentleman's Long Purse (page 144, item 96)
  10. Round Netted Mat (page 145, item 97)
  11. Netted Scarf (page 146, item 98)
  12. Round Netted Scarf (page 146, item 99)
  13. Netted Cuffs (page 147, item 100)
  14. Netted Cuffs (page 147, item 101)
  15. Netted Half Square Handkerchief (page 148, item 102)
  16. Netted Cardinal Cape (page 149, item 103)
  17. Scallop for Veil Borders, &c (page 150, item 104)
  18. Scallop for Curtains, &c (page 150, item 105)
  19. Single Diamond Netting (page 151, item 106)
  20. Grecian Netting (page 151, item 107)
  21. A Round Netted Purse (page 153, item 108)

Last week I mentioned I had received an email from Solange Oliveira.  What I did not mention was that she included in her email some net jewelry.  I wanted to get her permission to share these photos before I posted them.  These works of art are from a group of women in the city of Marechal Deodoro, in the state of Alagoas, Brazil.

Corresponding with someone who speaks a different language is a challenge.  Google Translator is fine for an overview but is poor when it comes to specifics like types of laces.

When describing what type of lace these ladies made, Solange wrote in Portuguese, "O nome de artesanato e 'clareza de Renda' e é igual ao italiano faça chamado 'ad Puntino atrás' na cidade de Latronico. O artesanato que faço chama Renda turco, mas é semelhante ao Singeleza de Renda."

Google translated it as, "The name of handicrafts and 'Income Plainness' and is equal to the Italian make called 'ad Puntino ago' in the city of Latronico. The crafts I make calls Income Turkish, but is similar to Income Plainness."

Hoping for some clarity, I contacted my son who lived in Brazil for about two years.  He replied with this translation, "This type of craft/art is called 'Clearness of Lace, or Lace Clarity', which is the same as the Italian art called 'ad Puntino atras' from the city of Latronico.  The craft I make is called Turkish lace, which is similar to Single Lace (or Solitary Lace)."

He also added, "The translation problem with the craft names is that I haven't really met anyone who does these in English.  If I recall correctly, Turkish lace is similar to macrame, but not identical.  Clearness of Lace could be something as simple as needlepoint, knitting, or netting, since I never met anyone who called it that while in Brazil, and don't have the photos.  Renda can mean lace, but there's a feel there of a woven (or worked) textile as well."

Whatever you call it, it is beautiful and demonstrates something else that can be made with netting.