## Saturday, February 27, 2016

### Vandyke Edge with Square Mesh from The Lady's Manual of Fancy-Work

In 1858, Mrs. Matilda Marian Pullan published The Lady's Manual of Fancy-Work: a complete instructor in every variety of ornamental needle-work. I thought the first edging, a Vandyke edge, she listed  on page 91 would be simple to make.  After all, she gave numbers which is more than Isabella Beeton did.  I did not find it that easy.

I finally had to get graph paper and sketch out what she was wanting me to do.  Even then, I had to undo the last 12 rows 3 or 4 times before I could figure out how to net a straight vertical side.

Here are the instructions as I finally figured them out.
All the netting was done with a #3 knitting needle used the mesh stick.

First Vandyke with Straight, Vertical Side

Row 1: Net 2 more knots in the foundation loop, leaving a 4-6" tail. (2 loops in the row)

Row 2: Net 1 kot in the first loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (3 loops in the row)

Row 3: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (4 loops in the row)

Row 4: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (5 loops in the row)

Row 5: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (6 loops in the row)

Row 6: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (7 loops in the row)

Row 7: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (8 loops in the row)

Row 8: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (9 loops in the row)

Row 9: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (10 loops in the row)

Row 10: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (11 loops in the row)

Row 11: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (12 loops in the row)

Row 12: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (13 loops in the row)

Row 13: Net 1 knot in each loop. (13 loops in the row)

Row 14: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (14 loops in the row)

Row 15: Net 1 knot in each loop. (14 loops in the row)

Row 16: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (15 loops in the row)

Row 17: Net 1 knot in each loop. (15 loops in the row)

Row 18: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (16 loops in the row)

Row 19: Net 1 knot in each loop. (16 loops in the row)

Row 20: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (17 loops in the row)

Row 21: Net 1 knot in each loop. (17 loops in the row)

Row 22: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (18 loops in the row)

Row 23: Net 1 knot in each loop. (18 loops in the row)

Row 24: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (19 loops in the row)

Row 25: Net 1 knot in each loop. (19 loops in the row)

Row 26: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (20 loops in the row)

Row 27: Net 1 knot in each loop for 13 loops, leave 7 loops without a knot, turn the netting. (13 loops in the row)

Second Vandyke

Row 28: Working on the loops just formed, net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (14 loops in the row)

Row 29: Net 1 knot in each loop. (14 loops in the row)

Row 30: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (15 loops in the row)

Row 31: Net 1 knot in each loop. (15 loops in the row)

Row 32: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (16 loops in the row)

Row 33: Net 1 knot in each loop. (16 loops in the row)

Row 34: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (17 loops in the row)

Row 35: Net 1 knot in each loop. (17 loops in the row)

Row 36: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (18 loops in the row)

Row 37: Net 1 knot in each loop. (18 loops in the row)

Row 38: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (19 loops in the row)

Row 39: Net 1 knot in each loop. (19 loops in the row)

Row 40: Net 1 knot in each loop except for the last loop, net 2 knots in the last loop. (20 loops in the row)

Row 41: Net 1 knot in each loop for 13 loops, leave 7 loops without a knot, turn the netting. (13 loops in the row)

For a longer piece repeat Rows 28-41 to add each additional Vandyke.

Final Vandyke with Straight, Vertical Side

Rows 42-43: Net 1 knot in each loop. (13 loops in each row)

Row 44: Net 1 knot in each loop except the last 2 loops, net the last 2 loops together. (12 loops in the row)

Row 45: Net 1 knot in each loop. (12 loops in the row)

Row 46: Net 1 knot in each loop except the last 2 loops, net the last 2 loops together. (11 loops in the row)

Row 47: Net 1 knot in each loop. (11 loops in the row)

Row 48: Net 1 knot in each loop except the last 2 loops, net the last 2 loops together. (10 loops in the row)

Row 49: Net 1 knot in each loop. (10 loops in the row)

Row 50: Net 1 knot in each loop except the last 2 loops, net the last 2 loops together. (9 loops in the row)

Row 51: Net 1 knot in each loop. (9 loops in the row)

Row 52: Net 1 knot in each loop except the last 2 loops, net the last 2 loops together. (8 loops in the row)

Row 53: Net 1 knot in each loop. (8 loops in the row)

Row 54: Net 1 knot in each loop except the last 2 loops, net the last 2 loops together. (7 loops in the row)

Because of the way I started the netting, one more step is needed to form the first square of the netting.

1. Remove the foundation loop from row 1 of the netting.
2. Tie the tail onto a tapestry needle, which is used in place of the netting needle.
3. Place the foundation-loop cord through another row of meshes.
4. Tie the foundation-loop cord into a circle and attach it to a tension device.
5. Net the first two loops together without using a mesh stick.

## Saturday, February 20, 2016

### Shell Border from Beeton's Book of Needlework

Beeton's Book of Needlework, by Isabella Beeton, includes a Shell Border on page 306 (item 311). This border begins with a 5-square piece of square netting. After the square netting is finished a three-row edge is then attached to one of the long sides of the square netting.

The instructions for the square-mesh netting are not included with the instructions for the Shell Border.

Here are my instructions for both the square-mesh netting and the Shell Border.

For the sample I made a square of netting that was 5 squares wide by 19 squares long.

Using a #3 knitting needle as a mesh stick, make a piece of square netting that is 5 squares wide by 19 squares long

Tie the thread from the netting needle onto the foundation loop, leaving a 6" tail.

Row 1: Net 2 knots into the foundation loop. Remove the mesh stick and turn the work so that the next row can be worked from left to right. (This will be done at the end of each row.)

Row 2: Net 1 knot into the first loop on the left; increase by netting twice into the 2nd loop.

Row 3: Net 1 knot in each loop except the last loop; net 2 knots into the last loop.

Rows 4-5: Net 1 knot in each loop except the last loop; net 2 knots into the last loop. (At the end of row 5 there will be 6 loops on the mesh stick.)

Row 6: Net 1 knot in each loop.

Row 7: Net 1 knot in each loop except the last loop; net 2 knots into the last loop.

Row 8: Net 1 knot in each loop except the last 2 loops, net the last 2 loops together.

Row 9: Net 1 knot into each loop, except the last loop; net 2 knots into the last loop.

Row 10: Net 1 knot into each loop except the last 2 loops; net them together.

Row 11: Net 1 knot into each loop, except the last loop; net 2 knots into the last loop.

Row 12: Net 1 knot into each loop except the last 2 loops; net them together.

Row 13: Net 1 knot into each loop, except the last loop; net 2 knots into the last loop.

Row 14: Net 1 knot into each loop except the last 2 loops; net them together.

Row 15 Net 1 knot into each loop, except the last loop; net 2 knots into the last loop.

Row 16: Net 1 knot into each loop except the last 2 loops; net them together.

Row 17: Net 1 knot into each loop, except the last loop; net 2 knots into the last loop.

Row 18: Net 1 knot into each loop except the last 2 loops; net them together.

Row 19: Net 1 knot into each loop, except the last loop; net 2 knots into the last loop.

Row 20: Net 1 knot into each loop except the last 2 loops; net them together.

Row 21: Net 1 knot into each loop except the last 2 loops; net them together.

Repeat row 21 until there are two loops left.

Final Row: Net the two loops together without a mesh stick. Do not cut the thread coming from the netting needle. Leave the netting needle attached to the netting.

To complete the rectangle, finish the very first corner, the one attached to the foundation loop.
1. Remove the foundation loop from row 1 of the netting.
2. Tie the tail onto a tapestry needle, which is used in place of the netting needle.
3. Place the foundation-loop cord through another row of meshes.
4. Tie the foundation-loop cord into a circle and attach it to a tension device.
5. Net the first two loops together without using a mesh stick.

Shell Border
1. Remove the foundation loop from the tension device and the netting.
2. Turn the netting so that the netting needle, and the corner it is attached to, are on the bottom left corner.
3. Place the foundation-loop cord through the top row of squares.
4. Tie the foundation-loop cord through another row of meshes.

Row 1: using a 3/8" flat mesh stick
Net 12 loops in the first square, *skip 8 loops, net 12 knots in the next square*; repeat from * to *.

Row 2: using a #3 knitting needle
Net 1 knot in each loop.

Row 3: using a #0 knitting needle
Net 1 knot in each loop.

## Saturday, February 13, 2016

### Open Lace found in Beeton's Book of Needlework

There are three edges included in Isabella Beeton Beeton's Book of Needlework, (published in 1870). The first one Lace Edging (page 305, item 309) is written in such a way I found very difficult to understand. It was only when I looked at instructions given in another lace book, The lady's manual of fancy-work: a complete instructor in every variety of ornamental needle-work, by Mrs. Matilda Marian Pullan, for the same type of edge, that the edge on page 305, item #309 in Beeton's edge made sense.

The Open Lace (page 305, item 310) edge had both instructions and an illustration - which did not match.  So again I did both.

Here is Open Lace, done by following the instructions

Here is my diamond mesh version of the instructions. It needs a multiple of 3 loops
Row 1: using a #0 knitting needle
Net 12 loops in the foundation loop.

Rows 2-3: using a #0 knitting needle
Net 1 knot in each loop.

Row 4: 1/4" flat mesh stick
Net 1 knot in each loop.

Row 5: using a #0 knitting needle
Net 3 loops together across the row.

Row 6: 1/4" flat mesh stick
Net 3 knots in the first loop, net 5 knots in all other loops except the last loop, end with net 3 knots in the last loop.

Row 7: using a #0 knitting needle
Net 1 knot in each loop for 2 loops, *skip a loop, net 1 knot in each loop for 4 loops;* repeat from * to *, ending with net 1 knot in each loop for 3 loops.

Row 8: using a #0 knitting needle
Net 1 knot in each loop for 2 loops, *skip a loop, net 1 knot in each loop for 3 loops*; repeat from * to *, ending with net 1 knot in each loop for 2 loops.

Row 9: using a #0 knitting needle
Net 1 knot in the first loop, *skip a loop, net 1 knot in each loop for 2 loops*; repeat from * to *.

Here is Open Lace, based on the illustration in the book.

Here are my instructions based on the the illustration. It needs a multiple of 3 loops

Row 1: using a #0 knitting needle
Net 12 loops in the foundation loop.

Rows 2-3: using a #0 knitting needle
Net 1 knot in each loop.

Row 4: 1/4" flat mesh stick
Net 1 knot in each loop.

Row 5: using a #0 knitting needle
Net 3 loops together across the row.

Row 6: using a #3 knitting needle
(Wrap the thread around the mesh stick once, then net 1 knot in the first loop) repeat 2 times,  *net 1 knot in the next loop, (wrap the thread round the mesh stick once, then net another knot in the same loop) repeat 3 more times into this loop (a total of 5 knots in the loop with 4 long loops)*; repeat from * to * ending with net 1 knot in the last loop of the row, net 3 wrapped loops into the last loop of the row. There are now 3 long loops in the last loop of the row.

Row 7: using a #0 knitting needle
Net 1 knot in each loop for 2 loops, *skip a loop, net 1 knot in each loop for 4 loops;* repeat from * to *, ending with net 1 knot in each loop for 3 loops.

Row 8: using a #0 knitting needle
Net 1 knot in each loop for 2 loops, *skip a loop, net 1 knot in each loop for 3 loops*; repeat from * to *, ending with net 1 knot in each loop for 2 loops.

Row 9: using a #0 knitting needle
Net 1 knot in the first loop, *skip a loop, net 1 knot in each loop for 2 loops*; repeat from * to *.

I liked this edge so much that I asked my granddaughter if I could use it to edge the linen handkerchief I was making for her.  She said, "Sure."

Here are the instructions for making this edge in rounds for a handkerchief.

Round 1: using a #0 knitting needle
Net 1 knot in each hemstitch or every 1/8" and 4 knots (3 loops) in each corner.

Round 2: using a #0 knitting needle
Net 1 knot in each loop except at the corner.  At the corners, starting 3 loops before the first of the three corner loops, net 2 knots in each loop for 9 loops.

Round 3: using a #0 knitting needle
Net 1 knot in each loop.

Round 4: 1/4" flat mesh stick
Net 1 knot in each loop

Round 5: using a #0 knitting needle
Without a mesh stick, net together the loop formed by the CK and the 2 loops to the right of the CK, *net 3 loops together*; repeat from * to *.

Round 6: using a #3 knitting needle
*Net 1 knot in the next loop, (wrap the thread round the mesh stick once, then net another knot in the same loop) repeat 3 more times into this loop (a total of 5 knots in the loop with 4 long loops)*; repeat from * to * ending with net 1 knot in the first loop of the round, net 3 wrapped loops into the first loop of the round. Tie the CK to form a long loop - there are now 4 long loops in the first loop of the round.

Round 7: using a #0 knitting needle
*Skip a loop, net 1 knot in each loop for 4 loops*; repeat from * to *.

Round 8: using a #0 knitting needle
*Skip a loop, net 1 knot in each loop for 3 loops*; repeat from * to *.

Round 9: using a #0 knitting needle
*Skip a loop, net 1 knot in each loop for 2 loops*; repeat from * to *. End by netting 1 more knot in the loop formed by tying the CK for round 8 (where the loose end is), then tie an overhand knot up tightly against the CK knot in that loop.

## Saturday, February 6, 2016

### Vandyke Border with Square Meshes from Guipure d'Art Netting

In 1879, Mlle. Eleonore Riego de la Branchardiere published Guipure d'Art Netting.   As she explains in her introduction: "Guipure d'Art or Cluny Lace, is formed by first making a foundation of Netting, and afterwards filling in the Meshes of the Network with various stitches formed in geometrical designs."

On pages 16 and 17 she gives a very clear description of how to net a square-mesh Vandyke border. I have not done the embroidery on the netting.

There was only one place where I did not follow her instructions.  That was at the beginning.  She starts with one loop and nets two knots into it to form two loops.  I have never been able to get that beginning to form the first square correctly.

Here is the way I worded the instructions.

Forming the first corner:
Tie the thread from the netting needle onto the foundation loop, leaving a 6" tail.
Row 1: Net 2 knots in the foundation loop.
Row 2: Net 1 knot in the first loop and 2 knots in the last loop.
Row 3: Net 1 knot in each loop for 2 loops, net 2 knots in the last loop.

Forming the Vandykes
Row 1: Net 1 knot in each loop. (4 loops)
Row 2: Net 1 knot in each loop for 3 loops, net 2 knots in the last loop. (5 loops)
Row 3: Net 1 knot in each loop. (5 loops)
Row 4: Net 1 knot in each loop for 4 loops, net 2 knots in the last loop. (6 loops)
Row 5: Net 1 knot in each loop. (6 loops)
Row 6: Net 1 knot in each loop for 5 loops, net 2 knots in the last loop. (7 loops)
Row 7: Net 1 knot in each loop. (7 loops)
Row 8: Net 1 knot in each loop for 6 loops, net 2 knots in the last loop. (8 loops)
Row 9: Net 1 knot in each loop. (8 loops)
Row 10: Net 1 knot in each loop for 7 loops, net 2 knots in the last loop. (9 loops)
Row 11: Net 1 knot in each loop for 5 loops, turn the netting and prepare to start the next row, leaving the other 4 loops to form one side of the Vandyke.
Row 12: Net 1 knot in each loop for 4 loops, net 2 knots in the last loop. (6 loops)

Repeat from Row 5 to Row 12 until the border is as long as desired.

Creating a straight edge at the end of the last Vandyke by repeating rows 5-7 and decreasing on the next 3 rows.

Row 5: Net 1 knot in each loop. (6 loops)
Row 6: Net 1 knot in each loop for 5 loops, net 2 knots in the last loop. (7 loops)
Row 7: Net 1 knot in each loop. (7 loops)
Row 8: Net 1 knot in each loop for 5 loops, net the last 2 loops together. (6 loops)
Row 9: Net 1 knot in each loop. (6 loops)
Row 10: Net 1 knot in each loop for 4 loops, net the last 2 loops together. (5 loops)

Because of the way I started the netting, one more step is needed to form the first square of the netting.
1. Remove the foundation loop from row 1 of the netting.
2. Tie the tail onto a tapestry needle, which is used in place of the netting needle.
3. Place the foundation-loop cord through another row of meshes.
4. Tie the foundation-loop cord into a circle and attach it to a tension device.
5. Net the first two loops together without using a mesh stick.